Tag: adventure

Climbing in the Park, part 1

Overview

Going off-trail and getting to the top of any one of Glacier Park’s many peaks can be one of the most memorable things you’ll ever do. And it’s becoming increasingly popular. Surprisingly the vast majority of peaks in the park can be reached without any technical gear. We refer to this as “scrambling” or “peak-bagging.” It can also be called “climbing” as it often involves strategic route finding, steep cliffs and ledges, dangerous exposure, 3,000′ to 6,000′ feet elevation gain, and a lot of careful placement of hands and feet on loose rock.

Friends on the summit of Mount Siyeh

Off-trail travel and climbing is allowed in Glacier National Park with few exceptions. Climbing and exploring are considered historical and cultural activities which are protected by law, and while the NPS allows it they certainly do not promote or encourage it (because it’s dangerous and people don’t always come prepared). There are sensitive environments where off-trail travel is strictly prohibited. An example of this is all areas off the boardwalk in the Logan Pass area (except designated climber trails for Reynolds and Oberlin). There may be occasional temporary closures due to wildlife, rescues, resource protection, or other hazards.

There are 234 named peaks or high points as accepted by the Glacier Mountaineering Society. They’re a great organization if you are looking for a way to join others on a climb or learn more about climbing. Though a summit of most peaks doesn’t require ropes, it must be noted this activity is inherently dangerous. In fact it can be, and has been, DEADLY. One missed step, a slide on a wet rock, or a loose rock pulling out can lead to disaster. Anyone engaging in these types of activities should recognize, and never underestimate, the potential danger involved.

The author on Iceberg Peak photo: Andrew Schnell

With the risk disclaimer out of the way, now it’s time to talk turkey. I love climbing in Glacier. It’s without question my favorite thing to do. I’ve climbed nearly 200 peaks in the park with about 125 of those being unique (several others were repeated). I enjoy taking experienced climbers with me but I also choose to prioritize taking “newbies.” I think it’s important for those getting started as peak-baggers to find someone with experience to mentor them. This simply helps make climbers safer.

First and foremost I encourage climbers to be prepared. This necessitates an understanding of weather, wildlife, rock conditions, route planning, personal fitness, group dynamics, and the ability to mitigate, retreat, self-rescue, or spend the night. So, what resources are available to help one learn how to climb safely in the park? The two best print sources of this information are A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park, by J Gordon Edwards, and the Climb Glacier National Park series by Blake Passmore. These references are loaded with history, geography, geology, route info, and tips on climbing techniques.

People often get route information, often referred to as “beta” from online sources. Two of the most common online sites for beta are mountainproject.com and summitpost.org

And now my two cents-worth about climbing ethics: Please, be a Conservator and not a Consumer. Follow Leave No Trace Ethics. Respect our Wild Places and our Public Lands. Model good stewardship. Follow GNP rules.

Ethics Examples:

  • Pack out your trash, including TP. Bury your poop in a cat hole
  • Don’t build cairns unless absolutely necessary for navigation
  • Don’t trample vegetation/flowers
  • Keep an appropriate distance from wildlife
  • Don’t carve your name on rocks or trees
  • Don’t disturb tribal artifacts or archeological sites
  • Get a permit if it’s required
A climber carefully navigates a narrow, exposed section

The next few parts will have content to help you be a safe and successful climber. This is not a guide book, nor is it to be considered an exhaustive manual of everything you need. It’s just me, imparting some experience, to share the joy of climbing in Glacier National Park. Please continue on to read part 2.

Helmets are COOL!

Climbing, part 2

Preparation

Climbers Ascending a Class III Gulley

Now that you’ve read the overview, purchased a few guide books, and decided climbing in Glacier is for you it’s time to start planning a climb. I can’t stress enough the importance of starting with peaks and routes that are within your fitness level and climbing experience. Don’t bite off more than you can chew or you might not have a good time. Even worse, you could have a bad outcome.

Let’s look at difficulty ratings. The Glacier Mountaineering Society has developed a system to quantify/qualify the difficulty of a particular climb. This is the standard by which the vast majority of us assess an adventure we might be pursuing. If you don’t know what distance and elevation gain you can handle I recommend you start with an easy climb such as Mount Oberlin and see how it goes for you.

GMS Climb Classification System

Class I (1) Easy  = Trail hiking 

Class II (2) Moderate = Low angle scrambling. 

Class III (3) Difficult = High angle scrambling, moderate cliffs, considerable exertion. Rope might be necessary for beginners. (Most of the basic climbs in the park. I like to think of this class as where you need three points of contact to climb)

Class IV (4) Very Difficult = Higher angle cliffs, increased exposure. Belaying rope often required. (I like to think of this class as requiring four points of contact)

Class V (5) Severe = High angle cliffs, severe exposure. Protection placed by leader. Technical climbing experience necessary. 

Class VI (6) Extremely Severe = Direct aid technical climbing. Overall rating in the classification reserved for only the biggest technical climbs. (example North Face of Mt. Siyeh or East Face of Mt. Gould) 

DistanceAmountElevationAmount
(S) Short1 – 6 miles(S) Short<3,000′
(M) Medium6 – 12 miles(M) Medium3,000′-4,500′
(L) Long12 miles +(L) Long>4,500′

Helmets

Take a helmet. Wear a helmet. Make helmets COOL again! Helmets are a good idea (mandatory if you climb with me) on anything Class III or higher, or Class II if you are next to cliffs where rockfall is possible (such as traversing below Reynolds to get to the route on the back side). Helmets help protect from rockfall (caused by fellow climbers, goats, or mother nature). They come in handy when ascending ledges as you can easily strike your head on rocks as you are moving up (see photo). Lastly, you could easily slip on wet or loose rock on inconsequential terrain but strike your head on a rock.

A climber hit his head on a sharp edge

The Climbing Day-Pack

Osprey Talon Pro 40L Pack

Hope is not an action plan…

Loading your pack can get you really hyped for your adventure. A climbing pack is a little different than a hiking pack. It’s a good idea to have a checklist so you don’t forget something important. You’ll want a well-fitting pack of 25L to 40L. Prepare for the worst. Below is a list of items I have in my pack every time I go off-trail. I’m also including a checklist I find helpful.

The Ten Essentials (survival tools in case you get stranded or injured)

  • Navigation: Maps, GPS, InReach, Compass
  • Headlamp + batteries
  • Sun/Wind Protection: Sunglasses, Sunscreen, Hat, UPF Clothing, Buff
  • First Aid: This could be a topic of its own, but start with the basics
  • Knife: Sometimes a multi-tool is handy. Also some repair gear
  • Fire: Fire starter, matches/lighter, tinder
  • Shelter: Light bivy in summer, Insulated bivy in the shoulder season
  • Extra Food: Calorie dense foods to survive an extra night
  • Extra Water: Plan an average of 3 liters/day and ability to filter more
  • Extra Clothing: Layering is key. Cover your head and hands as a priority

Other Items I Carry With Me

  • Helmet
  • Accessory cord/Paracord
  • Route specific: 30M rope, belay device, 2 lockers, 2 non-lockers, alpine harness
  • 30′ Webbing Hand Line (to help someone up or down a difficult short pitch)
  • Trekking Poles (can also help with shelter, splinting, carry-outs)
  • Bear Spray
  • Insect Repellent
  • Chapstick
  • Toilet Paper, wet wipes, ziplock to pack out TP, trowel to bury poo
  • Rain cover for pack
  • 6′ of Duct Tape
  • Umbrella (great for shade, rain, and hazing goats)
  • Gaiters (to keep scree out of boots & keep pants/socks dry from wet grass)
A webbing hand-line has knots a climber can use to climb up or down short pitches where holds are sparse. The belayer wraps the end around a rock and uses friction to hold the climber

Clothing Choices

  • Buff, Hat (ball cap or beanie)
  • Rain Jacket and Pants
  • Base and Mid layers: wicking material (no cotton)
  • Gloves: 1 pair light gloves, 1 pair insulated gloves
  • Extra socks
  • Footwear: I prefer an approach type boot with high ankle support. Good grip is very helpful. This also affords protection of the ankle from tumbling rock

Food Choices

  • Rapid Energy: candy bar, fruit, energy gel
  • Endurance Fuel: Cliff type bars, jerky, nuts
  • Satisfying: a nice summit sandwich and a celebratory shot of whiskey
  • Electrolytes: I prefer LMNT. 1/3 of my H2O consumption is with electrolytes
  • Don’t forget to pack a little extra in case you have to spend the night

Optional Gear You May Find Useful

  • Binoculars
  • Fishing Gear
  • Nice Camera and Tripod
  • Pack Chair or Seat Cushion
  • Micro-spikes or Crampons
  • Mountaineering Axe
  • Snowshoes
  • Anemometer
  • Flora and Fauna info cards

A climber on Mount Gould above Gem, Salamander, and Grinnell Glaciers
Climbing Day Pack 2025Download

You might think all of this gear would weigh a ton and take up too much room. If you pack wisely and use modern light-weight gear you can end up with a compact, efficient, and robust pack at under twenty pounds. So, you’ve got a peak and route planned and your bag is packed. Now it’s time to go out and climb! See part three for climbing techniques and tips…

Did I mention that helmets are COOL?

Climbing, part 3

The Adventure Begins

The author on top of the “Great Cleft”

You’ve looked over some peaks and found one that fits your physical abilities and climbing experience. Your friends are stoked and everyone’s packs are loaded with the essentials. Now it’s time to actually head out and start the adventure.

Did you check the weather forecast? I recommend looking at two weather opinions. Plan for the worst of them. NOAA.GOV is a decent site for basic forecasting. I also use MOUNTAIN-FORECAST.com This is a particularly useful site for climbers. Mountain Forecast will give you the temperature, frost line, and wind speed for three different elevations on a mountain. Recognizing a 20 degree temperature difference from the trail head with 30mph winds at your summit will help you make informed decisions on clothing choices. It can also help keep you aware of potential hazards such as verglas (a thin layer of ice on rock).

An example of mountain-forecast.com display

You’re almost ready to get to the trail head. Just one more very important thing left to do… write up your itinerary and leave it with a friend. In the unlikely event of a mishap (remember, always plan for the worst) a climbing plan will help bring rescue personnel to you faster and with the appropriate resources. It doesn’t have to be a novel, but the more information that is available on your itinerary, the better prepared an emergency response can be.

  • Names and contact info of everyone in your party (include InReach info)
  • Description of clothing and pack colors (I always recommend bright clothing)
  • Trail head name and departure time
  • Vehicle description(s) at trail head
  • Planned route. Include any expected hazards
  • Turn-around time (set one and stick to it!)
  • Planned exit time and location
  • List of contact names and numbers in case of emergency

You’ve hit the trail and started your adventure for the day. At some point you will head “off-trail” and make an ascent toward the peak. You’re likely to encounter scree (a layer of small loose rocks). This is a good time to put on gaiters and bust out the trekking poles. Try to avoid scree and stick to solid rock on the way up. Scree makes for a much more enjoyable descent. You’ll soon learn to love “scree skiing.” Take this opportunity to scout the route above you.

Soon enough you will be in classic GNP cliff bands and ledges. Now is a good time to put on that HELMET. This is the most enjoyable part in my humble opinion. I love getting hands on rock and scrambling through ledges and gulleys. There are a few things to keep in mind during this part: 1. Route Finding, 2. Spacing, 3. Rockfall, 4. Pace

Route finding within cliff bands can be challenging. It can be difficult to see what’s directly above you. If you choose a route up that gets you “cliffed-out” you will have to go back down a bit and find another route. Heaven forbid you get so cliffed-out you can’t even descend at all. Keep in mind that you want a route that will also be easy to descend. Ascending and down-climbing are different beasts. If you encounter an area of difficulty that is greater than the route description… you are probably off route and should be heading in a different direction.

Spacing of climbers on steep or vertical terrain is a critical component of safe climbing. This is where every member of the team needs to be paying attention. The rock quality in Glacier Park is horrible and you WILL knock rocks down. Understanding gravity and the “fall-line” will help keep your team safe. The goal with spacing is to either keep all climbers out of the fall-line or stay so close together that a tumbling rock would not have any consequential speed.

What do you notice here? How is the spacing?

Keep an eye on your team. Are they lagging behind? Do you notice apprehension about exposure? Are they taking undue risks? Are they staying hydrated? These are things to consider when assessing whether or not to continue with a climb. Never be afraid to speak up and voice a concern. Some times the best decision is to simply call it a day and turn around.

When it comes to the pace of the climbing team I like to use a benchmark of 1,000′ per hour. If your team is slower than that it’s time to do some math and figure out if you will make it to the top before your turnaround time. Along these lines I also have some recommendations for team endurance:

Every hour of heavy exertion or 1,000′ elevation gain (click arrow):

Take a quick break…

Eat something, drink something

I suggest ~200 calories. Include some carbs so you don’t BONK

Reassess team fitness and dynamics

Reassess weather

Congratulations, you made it to the summit! Now it’s time to head down to the trail head. This is the time for the highest risk of an accident. Your team is possibly mentally and physically fatigued, maybe even dehydrated. Help each other out with reminders on safety.

Did you make it back to the trail head? Most likely you did and it’s time to celebrate with a burger or pizza, and an ice cold beverage. Of course the Apres Climb choice of a burger versus pizza has historically been a close battle. But what if something went awry and, for example someone on your team broke an ankle? Are you prepared to self-rescue? I will leave you with this dilemma so you can mentally rehearse the many “what if?” scenarios you may encounter on a climb.

For me… I look forward to a greasy cheeseburger and a pint of scotch ale.

Hope is not an action plan!

Ken Rost